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ボルダージャパンカップ2023 男子決勝

ボルダージャパンカップ2023 男子決勝



Boulder Japan Cup 2022 Men Final

■決勝 – Finals
16:35 – 18:10：男子決勝 – Men Final

■公式サイト (Official Event Website)
https://www.jma-climbing.org/competition/2023/bjc/

■公式掲示板 (Official Result)
https://result.jma-climbing.org/event/bjc2023/1/3/result

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  3. 課題が酷い。

    国際大会仕様？知るか。

    んなもん必要があれば派遣選手が自分で練習するわ。

    忍者になりたきゃSASUKEやれや。

    BJCを愚弄した内容。

    あ、選手に文句はないです。いい登りでした。お疲れ様でした。

  8. This comp is more brutal than ISFC, or they just have different states now. Guess we'll find out when they compete in ISFC if their form now is the real deal. Can Ogata compete in bouldering too or is it based on rank in selecting who they send.

  9. 昨年は女子決勝課題のほとんどが若干リーチ目のコーディネーションで、既に国際大会で実績のあった森秋彩選手が2課題でムーブを起こせすらできない事が物議を醸したが、今年は男子課題の設定がちょっと不公平な采配だったかな、というのが率直に見ていた感想。1課題目の最初のムーブ、2課題目のSimplボテから黒カチ取りと保持時の身体の位置、 3課題目のゴールマッチ、4課題目のゾーン取りがまず見て取れる。

  11. Up to two Japanese athletes for each gender can participate in the combined Boulder & Lead events at Paris 2024. The Japanese athletes who will compete in the World Championships and the other qualifying events are basically selected by the results of the Boulder Japan Cup (BJC), the Lead Japan Cup (LCJ) and/or the Combined Japan Cup (CJC). The athletes who are in the top 3 of “B&L points” determined by adding the BJC and LJC results and/or who are in the top 3 in the CJC will have a high chance to participate in these qualifying events.

    The B&L points of the current top male athletes are as follows.

    1. Meichi Narasaki 1,000

    2. Daiki Sano 805

    3. Tomoa Narasaki 690

    4. Ritsu Kayotani 610

    5. Yuji Inoue 545

    6. Kokoro Fujii 495

  13. Tough day for Tomoa. I think the slab was the most surprising as he could get his hand to the top with ease and speed usually not seen on a slab, but just couldn't get the last move to stick somehow. If he only finds that top he moves into 2nd place.

    Fantastic performance from Meichi and wonderful effort from all of the competitors on a really hard set!

  18. Below are some comments from the top male climbers with Japanese media. I recommend not reading them before knowing the results of the competition.

    Meichi Narasaki:

    Since my goal was to reach the final, I never thought I would win. Compared to the semi-finals, the number of holds decreased and the distance between them increased in the final. There were a lot of problems that suited my climbing. I think that's why I won.

    Tomoa always encourages me when I'm negative, saying things like 'That's just a past story' or 'You are still okay so you can do your best'. He supports me mentally and sometimes recommends mental and sports books. His advice might have been helped me to win.

    Daiki Sano:

    I'm really surprised by the rank that I didn't expect. I'm very happy but surprise outweighs happiness. The two problems that I climbed in the final were the problems that I was really good at. I couldn't climb others, but I have no regrets because I was able to make the most of my weapon and finish them off.

    Since I got sick with coronavirus and couldn't attend BJC 2022, I worked hard for this day for two years. I'm finally going to the World Cup. I want to keep this momentum, to compete in as many competitions as possible and to do my best there.

    Tomoa Narasaki

    I regret that I couldn’t climb the problems which required some special movements that I had thought I could have climbed. Since I've been doing a lot of endurance training this winter, I want to win the Lead Japan Cup later this month.

    I'm also happy to reach the BJC final and stand on the podium with my brother for the first time. I was worried he was rather out of shape, and so I'm surprised because I didn't expect to lose to him. Rather than the physical improvements, I think that he got better at managing his emotion while climbing in the competition. We have practiced together for a long time, and I knew that he was strong, but he was not able to get good results. I hope that this result will give him confidence, and that we can have a good training together again.

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