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ボルダージャパンカップ2023 女子決勝

ボルダージャパンカップ2023 女子決勝



Boulder Japan Cup 2022 Women Final

■決勝 – Finals
13:35 – 15:10：女子決勝 – Women Final

■公式サイト (Official Event Website)
https://www.jma-climbing.org/competition/2023/bjc/

■公式掲示板 (Official Result)
https://result.jma-climbing.org/event/bjc2023/2/3/result

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  4. 批判するのは心苦しいけど、もう少し知識がある人を実況者にアサインすべき。選手やセッターや解説は素晴らしいのにそれだけがいつも残念

  6. Hard being a fan of Ai Mori when you see her struggle at dynos. She needs more commitment in that jump in W3.

  7. Congrats to Ito Futaba! She was definitely in the zone with 4 flashes. Wow!!! 🏆

    Ai Mori struggled with the dynamic and coordination parts for W1 and W3 but did amazing for W2 and W4 which suited her style. Looking forward to see more of her in the comps this year. #yestoAI

  8. 課題が酷い。
    国際大会仕様？知るか。
    んなもん必要があれば派遣選手が自分で練習するわ。
    忍者になりたきゃSASUKEやれや。
    BJCを愚弄した内容。
    あ、選手に文句はないです。いい登りでした。お疲れ様でした。

  11. Up to two Japanese athletes for each gender can participate in the combined Boulder & Lead events at Paris 2024. The Japanese athletes who will compete in the World Championships and the other qualifying events are basically selected by the results of the Boulder Japan Cup (BJC), the Lead Japan Cup (LCJ) and/or the Combined Japan Cup (CJC). The athletes who are in the top 3 of “B&L points” determined by adding the BJC and LJC results and/or who are in the top 3 in the CJC will have a high chance to participate in these qualifying events.

    The B&L points of the current top female athletes are as follows.

    1. Futaba Ito 1,000

    2. Miho Nonaka 805

    3. Melody Sekikawa 690

    4. Ai Mori 610

    5. Mia Aoyagi 545

    6. Anon Matsufuji 495

  12. It's too bad W1 and W3 had those explosive dynamic moves, it definitely penalized Ai Mori as it's not her style…

  13. I hadn't seen Melody Sekikawa climb before, but what a performance. To keep up with giants like Miho and Ai at 15 under the pressure of finals is really impressive. I expect to see her on the international circuit before long.

  16. Below are some comments from the top female climbers with Japanese media. I recommend not reading them before knowing the results of the competition.

    Futaba Ito:

    I am frankly happy that I was able to flash all the problems and win the competition. I decided from the beginning about the left toe hook when getting the top of W1 (32:00). At the observation I thought I was good at this kind of problem and so I tried to focus on it.

    Although I was worried before the competition, today’s climbing must give me confidence. I want to improve where I can and get stronger for the World Cup. Winter training paid off in good shape. Believing in this, I would like to focus on getting a slot for the World Championships.

    Miho Nonaka:

    I am happy to be on the podium. Since there were more powerful problems in the semi-final, I felt that I couldn't show my strengths on the problems in the finals. I'm not good at slabs like W2 (1:04:20) because it's really hard to balance. In the end, it all comes down to whether or not I can climb it while keeping balance within the time limit, and that's where I feel the difficulty.

    A lot of spectators have come back and supported us a lot. I was able to enjoy climbing for the first time in a long time, saying, "This is climbing."

    Melody Sekikawa:

    Having trained for the BJC all year long, I was very happy to be in the final. All I had in mind for the final was to have fun, and I wanted to enjoy climbing as much as possible. I never expected to be on the podium, so third place is a big surprise.

    I am good at long-distance problems and coordination-related problems. From now on, I want to increase flashes and reduce the number of attempts. I also want to steadily reduce the moves I'm not good at. Since I can compete in the World Cup, I want to be in the final even if it's only one match. Although I just happened to have a good result this time, I want to train a lot more and become really strong in the future.

    Ai Mori:

    I couldn't do the moves I'm not good at in W1 (27:18) and W3 (1:14:30), and I was frustrated that I still had a long way to go. Since my fingers were still in good condition even in the final, I thought, 'This might help me get the distance,' but it didn't go well. I thought I had practiced dynamic problems hard, but when it came to the competition, the intensity was high and I still couldn't handle it well.

    If I can enjoy climbing without sacrificing my studies at university, and if I can participate in the Paris Olympics after enjoying it, I think it will be another good experience and I will be able to better myself. I want to improve myself by broadening my horizons to various places, instead of focusing only on the Paris Olympics.

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